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Screw
plug: Often Manufactured by Vulcan or, Heat Tube,
these are the simplest set up out there. They consist of an element
with a threaded end that is screwed into the plumbing. They are often located
on the top of the pump. A junction box 3X2 inches is attached to the element.
Inside you have a thermostat, Hi Limit, indicator light, and the element
connections. The thermostat can be identified by the knob stem, the
high limit by its red button. Both have sensing bulbs inserted into
“wells” built into the element. These are the thin copper wire
“looking” capillary tubes that seem to disappear into the element area.
They are not wires though and should not be cut. They contain freon
that expands and contracts with the temperature of the water and allow
the controls (T-stat and Hi limit) to do their job. See Heater circuits
figure
1 |
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5x5:
Originally manufactured by Premier, Brett Aqualine, and CRL (stainless)
These heaters can be 120 volt or 240 volt. They consist of a plastic
or stainless steel housing the face of which is approx. 5x5x 4" allowing
plenty of room for wiring connections. They often contain a Thermostat,
Pressure Switch, and hi limit. And can, because of their roominess be really
crammed with a contactor or function relays which if that's the case can
cause difficulty troubleshooting. Hopefully yours will look more like this
one. See Heater Circuits figure
2 |
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Flo
thru: These spa heaters are the current favorite with MANY manufacturers.
You'll find them on NuWave, Brett Aqualine, Balboa Instruments, Caldera
Spas, Cal Spas Vita Spas, Emerald Spas Hydro quip, Hercules, Sundance,
Spa Builders Support group And many others. They may vary in size so the
length is important. These heaters are usually attached directly
to a controller. They look like a stainless steel tube. They
attach by union fittings to the plumbing. The element leads are housed
inside the controller and there will be a contactor that will energize
then. |
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Stand
alone: Found
commonly on
permanent installations they are 240 volt, either 5.5kW or 11kW and are
equipped with a thermostat, High limit, pressure switch, contactor and
indicator light and are not as dependent on relay logic as
portable type systems. They are hard wired to their own breaker.
They require flow and temperature demand to fire. Other than that, they
still utilize the famous control loop. Manufacturers include: Hayward,
RayPak, Teledyne Laars, Comfortzone (Now Hayward) Coates, and others. |
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Gas
Heaters: Usually found on permanent spas with remote equipment,
have their own special troubleshooting area. However, They
still utilize the same control loop. Thermostat, pressure switch,
high limits ( at least two) On/Off, and a fusible link ( a little gizmo
that should always be closed unless flames have burned it up.) Gas heaters
are by far the fastest way to heat a spa. Once you've had a gas heater
you wouldn't even consider electric. They provide almost instant
heat and properly sized should heat up the water within a half hour in
most situations. One thing to remember is that the water coming out
of a gas heater is only 7 to 10 above the temp of the water going through
it. If it was hotter, it would burn you at the top end of the heating
cycle. What you'll feel is water a "little warmer " than the surrounding
water as it's heating, but miraculously it will be hot! |
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