Jet Plumbing 1-813-235-4574  

 
PVC cutters or hacksaw
PVC glue (we recommend pool tite or rain and shine)
PVC clear cleaner (do not use purple primer, it softens flex pipe too much)
3 M  “M-5200”  Marine sealant (for Jet flanges, suction flanges or any thru-wall fitting that will be underwater.)
17 inch channel locks
Clean Rags and paper towels. 
Power drill with hole saws …hole saw sizes listed below. 

 
If you are plumbing your entire spa you will need to order the the following items for your Spa plumbing Kit.  When received, Lay them out with like parts together.

 
1. Jet bodies:  The jet body is the part that is actually installed in your hot tub. Depending on the jet type, they may insert through the hole in the tub, retained with a lock ring, or they may have a flange that inserts thru the wall and tightens against the jet body on the back side. 

2.  Jet inserts: This is the part that will provide the action. They generally screw into the jet body.  Save this step for last after all plumbing is completed and cured. 

3.  Spa suctions or skimmers

6.  Water manifolds: The "spoked" manifolds deliver the water to each jet. the most popular version is the 3/4 barbed type that uses clear vinyl tube OVER each spoke. . 

7.   Air manifolds:  The air manifolds connect to a 1 inch air control and are plumbed with 3/8ths vinyl tube from each spoke on the manifold to the air spoke on the jet body. 

8.  Air control (s) Flange mounted air valves to allow for air draw to the jets. 

9.  Plugs for any extra ports in your air or water manifolds

10. PVC caps and plugs for manifold ends (some of these are very small…)

11.Clear vinyl tube 3/8ths inch, for connection from the barbed air connector on each jet to a barb on the air manifold.

12. 3/4 inch vinyl tube  to connect from the water port on each jet to a port on the  water manifold. 

13. 1.5 or 2 inch flex pipe for connection from equipment discharge to water manifold and from the suction fittings to the equipment.  

14. 1.5 or 2 inch ball or slide valves for isolation of equipment (Optional)

Plan your holes!  Look on both sides of the spa before drilling. You need a flat surface on BOTH sides.  Mark the center point with magic marker. Drilling into an air channel or a ridge is a bad mistake you want to avoid! You need the spots you choose to allow the jet body to snug up to the wall on both sides. If you aren’t accustomed to using a hole saw this size on your drill make sure you HOLD ON TO IT TIGHTLY .  It can wrench the heck out of your arm. Drill your pilot hole and keep your rpms up as the hole saw approaches the spa shell.  Dont use excess force on the drill bit, let the saw do the work!  Apply gentle pressure and hold the drill steady. Wallow slightly. This will make the core easier to remove. Be ready for the breakthrough. You don’t want to be leaning heavily on the drill.   Remove cores after each hole. 

 If your spa shell has an inch or so of blown on foam it can be removed after drilling your hole, if you’re pretty sure there will be no surprises under the foam.  The easiest way to do this is with the hole saw you used to drill the hole.  If you put the hole saw pilot bit on the edge of the hole and make a circular motion around the hole  with the drill…the hole saw  will chew up the foam on the back… Use Finesse.  You don’t want it to mar the fiberglass.  Clean the fiberglass with pvc cleaner before you install the jet body. 

Put a bead of M-5200 or clear silicone on the flange of the jet (the part that will be in contact with the fiberglass on the INSIDE and insert it into the hole.  Put the retaining ring on the back of the jet body and snug it up firmly, but not over tight. You can put a bead of the M-5200 or silicone on the jet back as well.  Wipe off any excess M-5200 on the inside of the shell, and smooth down the bead oozing out around the jet back.   The jet back should be installed so that the air barb is pointing up and the water port pointing down.  If you are installing jet clusters  they may be cocked somewhat without adverse effect. When installing the pipe to the barbed connection use glue on the male barb only and slide the tube over the barb.  

The suction fitting installs the same way as the jets, M-5200 on the flange and on the nut of the back.   Be sure you have planned at least two suction fittings per pump. Skimmers need to be installed with water levels in mind.  The water level is marked on most skimmers.  Make sure your hole is below this line with the skimmer assembled. 

Be sure you know what is on the underside of the spa flange  before you drill your hole! 
Plan the location of your air controls so that they are positioned between the banks of jets you intend to operate.  The air manifold will plumb right to the air control.. You will glue it into place. Cap off the end.  Air controls do not need to be sealed to the shell as they are located above water level.  Each port on the air manifold will connect to the air barb on the back of each jet. Glue the male parts only and push the vinyl tube onto it as far as you can. 

The water manifold will plumb to the discharge side of your spa equipment.  You will plumb into it with either 1.5 or 2 inch pipe, keep in mind however, that the more jets you use the large pipe you will want to deliver the water to the manifold. 2 inch should be a minimum size for over 6 jets!   Several manifolds can be plumbed together if desired, they are designed for multiple connections.  The last manifold in line will need a cap on the final end. If you are plumbing banks of jets in certain areas, you can plumb to that area with 2 inch flex and use a 2inch by 6 port manifold under that area…then plumb to the next bank with 2 inch with another manifold in that location.  This saves on the amount of tube you need for the overall job and provides for adequate water delivery to each jet.  It is also cleaner looking than having all of your manifolds together with long runs of 1/2inch or 3/4 inch flex. 

To connect the vinyl to the barbed fittings, use cleaner on the male parts then glue, then push the vinyl over each barb..  a slight twist as you are pushing is always good. You want to leave a comfortable amount of slack between the manifold and each jet, without being sloppy. 

It’s best to wait at least 24 hours if possible, after plumbing your spa before putting it under pressure.

Jet family  inserts are interchangeable from jet to jet. They just thread or twist lock in and do not need any type sealant or thread compound. Storm jet inserts twist lock in. Save this for the very last. Many jet inserts are adjustable which means they can be turned off… be sure they are in an open position before turning on your pump.