Digital systems may use pressure switches or temp sensors to determine if there is enough flow for the heater to fire. If the system detects no water pressure, or temp sensors detect temp levels outside the realm of their settings the system will return a Flow error. This is often expressed as “flo” on the digital panel of the hot tub.

When you get an error like this, the first thing you want to check is the pump.  If the pump is either not coming on.. or running, without pumping, you will get this error code.  If you’ve just drained your hot tub, and the pump seems to be running (as opposed to Humming)  but you have no water flow, you need to check for an air lock at the pump.

To check for an air lock, turn off all power to your system at the breaker.  Locate the pump plumbed to the heater and loosen the female nut part of the union on the front of the pump by unscrewing it slightly and wiggling it to break the oring seal.  Keep your hand under the union so you don’t lose the Oring.  If your pump is airbound, when you release the oring seal, you will hear air hissing out of the pump.  Let all of the air hiss out until water starts to come out.  Let the water leak a bit until it is a steady stream and then tighten the union nut back up to the pump.  This should be hand tight only!  When you have the union snugged up and the water is not leaking anymore, turn your breaker back on and see if  the pump starts pumping water again.  If it does, your flow error should be corrected.

If your pump is not running when you get the error code, you need to check for cause there.  If the pump is not getting power, you could have a spa control issue.  If the pump is getting power, you may have a pump problem.  An electrical meter is the only way to know for sure if your pump is getting power or not.

Checking voltage to the pump is a little tricky because you need to know if the pump is a 120 or 230volt pump.  ALL 2 speed pumps have 4 wires, usually a white, black, red and green.  The green wire to the pump attaches to the pump ground screw.  In both 120 and 230 volt pumps, the white is considered “common.”  In a 120 volt pump the white will be “NEUTRAL.”  Black and red on both 120 and 240 pumps are “switched lines”  feeding low or  high speed connections.  The most common scenario is that the black feeds the high speed pump windings and the red feeds the low speed pump windings, but some control manufacturers may do it the opposite way with red being high speed and black being low speed.  On the pump motor itself, you can see a small H for high and a L for low as well as a C for common where the wires attach to the motor.

The hot tub control system only feeds ONE speed at a time, either high or low, but never both. (if both high and low are fed at the same time which can happen if there is a bad relay in the system, the pump will sound buzzy, will not work efficiently and will eventually shut off by the motor overload.

Testing a 120 volt 2 speed pump, involves voltage tests between  the COMMON (Neutral) and either High or Low speed connections.

Most systems will energize the low speed pump on startup and in heating situations.  After energizing your hot tub, the pump should start on low speed.  Your test to be sure the pump is getting voltage will be between the common and low speed connection on the pump.  If the pump is to work properly, there should be 115 to 120 volts at this connection.  If you have voltage here, but the pump is not coming on.. you have a pump problem. If there is no voltage here, the problem may be in the control system.

Testing a 240 volt 2 speed pump will also involve a test from the COMMON (LINE 2 in a 240 situation) to the Low speed connection on the pump.  You should have 220 to 240 volts if the pump is to work properly.  In a 240 volt pump, the common is always hot! Readings of 120 volts do not indicate that the pump is getting sufficient power. You are simply reading the voltage coming from line 2 that is always present.  When the pump is energized for High speed, your 240 volts can be read between the common and high speed connections.

Always, disconnect power at the breaker before opening or removing any panels from any component.  These tests are best performed immediately after energizing your system.  High voltage can kill you!  Plan your moves  and understand your multimeter! If you are uncomfortable with these tests hire someone qualified to do them for you but make sure they perform THESE tests.  

Please evaluate your skill level before attempting this test.  All tests performed by you are at your own risk

Power Off At Breaker

Disconnect heater element from any wires attached to it.  Be careful when unscrewing the nut holding the wires in place on the element, you do not want to twist the “cold pin” that leads to the element.  There is usually a fixed nut below the removeable one that will allow you to secure the cold pin.

It is not necessary to remove the heater assembly! You want water in the heater manifold during this test!

Continuity Test:

With your meter set on the most sensitive  ” ohms” setting (the OMEGA symbol on the meter)  put one probe on one element lead and the other probe on the other lead.

If you meter does not change,it is showing no continuity, the element is bad

If your meter measures resistance then it is showing continuity which indicates the filament inside is intact, but the heater could still  be bad!

Ground Fault Test

Move one probe to a metal part on the heater casing leaving the other one on one pole of the heater element .  If there is any flicker of continuity from one element lead to the heater casing (ground) the element is bad, even though you may have tested good  continuity above!  This is a ground fault situation and is what your GFCI is picking up and saving you from!

If you have an intact filament and no fault to ground, the heater element  should be good and you may have a different problem.

Since gfci’s are very sensitive, you could still have a bad element and your meter sensitivity may not be allowing you to pick up the fault.

Okay it’s bad, now what do I do?

Now you need to replace the element (if replaceable) or the entire heater assembly.

The most common replacement element is the flow through element.  If your heater manifold is a stainless steel straight flow through tube, this is the element you’ll need.

Even if that doesn’t look like one you need, clicking on the image will take you to our page with all heater elements, popular manifolds and complete heater assemblies.  

There are a few hot tub heaters out there but not so many that you can’t find yours here!

By far the most common spa heater is the Flow Through

  This heater is mounted horizontally, usually attached to your spa control. it can be at the top or the bottom and sometimes is placed away from your control in a remote type installation with a cord that runs to your spa control from the heater. The heater manifold often has a threaded hole for a pressure switch. It can also have wells for thermostat and high limit sensors as well. Many manufacturers had custom Flow Through heater manifolds designed for their particular purpose.  There are now generic versions available that allow many locations for pressure switch and sensor location, so one is not tied to the original manufactured manifold that may be more expensive than the generic one. The most commons size is 15 inch long by 2inch diameter.  There are also manifolds that measure 12, 13, 18, and 19 inches long. There are a few 1.5 inch manifolds as well but they are difficult if not impossible to replace the element. 

The element  is easily replaced and inexpensive.  The heater element is held in place by two large nuts.  Smaller nuts hold the wires that energize the element in place. It is rare that you actually have to replace the entire heater housing, unless it is rusty and corroded, or the plumbing connections are mangled. The element comes right out with a little persuation, and the new one bolts right in.  When replacing the wires to the element, its important that the cold pin (the part of the element that carries the current to to the emersed part) is NOT TWISTED during tightning.  Most elements have a 1/4 inch nut built in under the nuts the wires attach to, to secure the cold pin when tightening the wires.

  The "Brett Aqualine" Style heater was common on many older hot tubs.  No manufacturerer is currently using this large boxy style heater with a replaceable bolt in element but there are many in the field.  The Box on this heater was so roomy, that some manufacturers used that space to create an actual spa controller.  Hydro Quip is one manufacturer who utilized this housing and expanded its functionality to a hot tub control/heater that often mounted right above the pump.The way to tell the difference is that if all component wires plug into this unit, it is a contoller.  If only the wires used for the heater and control loop go into this box, then it is functioning as a heater only. 

The element is replaceable in either case. However sometimes everything in the box needs to be removed to get to the bolt in heater element.  The element in most cases has a threaded hole for pressure switch mounting, a hole to mount a current collector, and studs for the use of a themodisc high limit.  If you click on the above image it will take you to SpaPartsNet.com and the element with pressure switch and high limit attached.  Its important to always replace the orings that seal the element to the heater housing.  The plastic heater housing is also sold separately.  

The Brett style  heater IS outdated, Today it is manufactured only as a replacement part.  the element is more expensive and difficult to replace than the flow though type heater element.  If you have the brett style heater, it would not be a bad idea to consider a new spa control with a flow through stainless heater attached. If you are replacing the complete heater assembly (above) its only 20 DOLLARS more.. to go with a complete new spa control system with a flow through heater!  The Epak Shown here is 355.00 COMPLETE with heater, topside control, all new circuitry.

Low Flow heaters are popular with many hot tub designers

  These heaters are often mounted vertically and utilize a small circulation pump for water flow. There are many styles.  If you have this type, click the image and see the complete selection we have at SpaPartsNet.com.  These heaters usually have to be replaced in their entirety.  An element only replacement is not possible as the element is sealed in the housing.  Shown is the Blue Ridge Gatsby heater assembly.  Leisure Bay, Hurricane and more have used low flow heater systems.

Watkins,   Hot Springs  and their sister companies, Tiger River etc,  also uses low flow heater assemblies.  These are often a bent tube design such as this one: Hot Springs has replaced it’s "no fault" heater about 5 times.  The latest version will always be compatible with your system.  The element only is not replaceable on hot springs heaters.

There are several obsolete heaters that you could find in your hot tub.  One is the screw plug style.  This is basically a threaded element with a box on the end.  In the beginning, they were the only heater so if you have one of these you can consider your hot tub vintage!  But when it goes, we reccomend not replacing it at all with a like type.. Now is the time to upgrade your system totally. 

 Stand Alone Heaters are found commonly on permanent installations they are 240 volt, either 5.5kW or 11kW and are equipped with a thermostat, High limit, pressure switch, contactor and indicator light and are not as dependent on relay logic as portable type systems. They are hard wired to their own breaker. They require flow and temperature demand to fire. Other than that, they still utilize the famous control loop. Manufacturers include: Hayward, RayPak, Teledyne Laars, Comfortzone (Now Hayward) Coates, and others. For outdoor installations this is a great choice. 

  Gas Heaters: Usually found on permanent spas with remote equipment, have their own special troubleshooting area. However, They still utilize the same control loop. Thermostat, pressure switch, high limits ( at least two) On/Off, and a fusible link ( a little gizmo that should always be closed unless flames have burned it up.) Gas heaters are by far the fastest way to heat a spa. Once you’ve had a gas heater you wouldn’t even consider electric. They provide almost instant heat and properly sized should heat up the water within a half hour in most situations. One thing to remember is that the water coming out of a gas heater is only 7 to 10 above the temp of the water going through it. If it was hotter, it would burn you at the top end of the heating cycle. What you’ll feel is water a “little warmer ” than the surrounding water as it’s heating, but miraculously it will do the job and quickly! !Gas heaters are  by far the best way to go for outdoor permanent installs.  With a gas heater there is no reason to maintain a temperature in your hot tub because it is sooooo fast!   Nothing else comes close!  A gas heater is a large appliance located by the equipment.  If you own one, we can help you troubleshoot and we do sell replacement parts for gas heaters.  They are usually very repairable. 

Hopefully you’ve been able to locate your hot tub heater from the above selections and the links to SpaPartsNet.com.  IF not?  give us a call and we can help you get back in HOT WATER!

The following exercise involves observations we’d like you to check  before you call! We want you to have identified the type heater you have and that you’ve read  the following:

Does "anything" work?

IE, can you activate your pump blower light etc? If it seems like nothing works, check the obvious:  All Breakers, GFCI’s  and Reset buttons on your hot tub equipment pack, or spa pack.  If  you find a tripped breaker, or GFCI breaker, Reset and try operation again, proceeding with caution. Breakers and GFCIs trip for a reason generally.  Many times it is the heater element that will cause this tripping. If the spa trips the second that heat demand is present it probably is your heater element causing this. NEVER BYPASS GFCI"S or "try it without" GFCI protection.  This tells you nothing and is dangerous! If you find a High Limit Reset is tripped ( This is the "red button" found on many spa packs. If you have an older hot tub, the button may be on the heater itself. and possibly covered by a rubber nipple) Go ahead and attempt a reset.  When this button is tripped resetting it will involve a definite "click’  If it wont click in it is just NOT TRIPPED. *note: if you have a digital spa pack you will probably not have a manual High Temp limit switch.  It will be done with sensors.  High Temp limit switches are in place for two reasons.  One to protect the bather from water that could be too hot.  But the other reason is to protect the heater itself from overheating.  Most high limit switches are located with their sensor near the element itself.  If the element is not getting the proper amount of water flow ( pump problems, water level too low in hot tub etc) It will trip even though the spa itself is not hot at all.  Water flow is essential for cooling the element so that it doesn’t burn up.  The high limit may not always protect the heater element because even though it immediately shuts off power to the heater element, the element can overheat quicker than the high limit can react.  * note: Never try to operate a heater if the hot tub is not at its proper fill level!  The pump will loose prime and the heater element can literally burn up in seconds!  Turn off immediately if it sounds like there is water boiling in the heater area.  If your high limit resets, and the hot tub starts normally, check your pump operation closely.  Chances are it was flow problem that cause this issue.  Make sure your pump is operating normally with no leaks or unusual noise.  Also be positive that any shut off  valves are in the open position.  The level of water in your hot tub is critical to your pump operating properly.

Is your Pump Pumping and Water Flowing?

In the section above emphasis was placed on proper pump operation.  After checking resets and power, your next target is the pump.   You want to be sure that not only is the pump running, it is pumping.  To check this you want to open your cover and verify that flow is present. If your pump is running but not pumping be sure to check any  valves that may be closed after servicing.  Only open or close valves with the power OFF! Then try pump operation again.  Other things can keep pumps from pumping as well the most common and easy to fix  is an air lock.  Air locks happen sometimes when the hot tub is drained.  All the water leaves the pump during process and when the fill begins a big bubble gets trapped there.  You can try and open the air control or the air relief valve on the filter but sometimes that’s not enough and you have to get wet…lol.  With the power to the hot tub OFF try  opening the union on the front suction of the pump. This is the best place to release an air lock.  Don’t unscrew  the union completely, just crack it enough to break the seal of the oring.  If there is an air lock, you will hear the air hissing out.  Once the air lock is cleared,  water will begin leaking out.  Let it leak for a second to be sure all of air has been dispelled.  Tighten up the union and try the pump again. If your pump operation is normal and there is still no heat…

Have You Waited Long Enough?

We get quite a few calls that fall into this category.   Initial fill of a hot tub will take awhile to reach temperature.  Hot tubs operating at 120 volts heat approximately 1 to 2 degrees an HOUR!  You will not feel a difference in the temp of the water entering the hot tub.  Your best bet is to walk away for a good 6 hours at least to check for increases in temperature. Once the hot tub attains temperature, it will maintain it.   240 Volt hot tubs heat about 4 to 6 degrees an hour.  Ambient temperature will effect the heating times of any hot tub.  You need a good insulated cover for your tub as well.  80 percent of a hot tubs heat is lost thru the surface area.  A good cover is a must!  They dont have to be expensive either. Check out "The Soft Cover."  They cost under 200 dollars and can ship UPS!  They use an air bladder to insulate with impressive R values.

You’re pumping, you got enough water, no high limit problems,you’ve waited a friggin week and its still not heating?

Well it might be time to roll up the sleeves and do some electrical tests. Your going to need some tools and good logical head.  You are going to learn some more heater logic and learn about common issues that relate to heating that occur "inside the box."  You absolutely will need an electrical meter and know how to use it.  If you are in anyway not comfortable with power on tests, do not attempt them.  Call a qualified person in your area. The next section will explain more about heater trouble shooting which often gets into control troubleshooting.  You might want to identify the spa heater you have.  The majority of the modern heaters are of the Flow Through design.  If your heater looks different  Click on identify your hot tub heater.  If you are ready to move on,  click on Spa Heater Circuits.  We are in the process of revising all of our pages, to our new look and WordPress format.

Fix it Yourself and Look like a Pro with SpaBabes.com!

Welcome to SpaBabes.com, your experienced  source for help with your hot tub or spa equipment issues.  The combined experience level of the hot tub techs at SpaBabes encompasses many years and we can help you with hot tubs manufactured from the early 80's, thru the 90s right up to this year! With today's economy, wouldn't it be nice to know where to get tech support  to fix your own hot tub?  You've found it!  We exist to help you troubleshoot your hot tub. You can not only do it yourself,  you can  buy your hot tub parts and equipment at a discount from people who know hot tubs inside and out!

New!  Great tips and tricks for knowing your hot tub.  Get on our list. 

FREE TECH SUPPORT FOR ANY HOT TUB!

When the diagnosis is complete,we're here with the right hot tub part, spa pack, or equipment at discount pricing! Our spa parts and equipment catalog is easy to navigate, with a great selection of complete hot tub and spa packs, spa controls, spa covers, spa heaters, spa heater elements, pumps, motors, relays and more.  SpaPartsnet.com THE source for all your hot tub equipment needs is a click away!

Just so you know...SpaPartsNet.com has the best selection of spa packs and spa control systems in the industry at great pricing.  If you click on the image to your left, It will take you to the page with our ACC control systems, One of our favorite brands.  But we have more too: Balboa control systems, Hydroquip control systems, Spa Builders Systems Group Controllers, and more! So plenty of selection, plenty of good help with the choice,  based on your equipment configuration.

Want to try and  figure it out?  There is a lot of info right here!

The Glossary is a great place to start.  It goes through common hot tub and  spa equipment  and components, item by item, with helpful hints along the way.  If you are unfamiliar with your hot tub, you'll find it much easier to communicate with us once you've glanced over it.

The Spa Babes Spa Care Guide contains good simple advice for balancing water and and keeping your hot tub sanitary.  It is our most popular page at Spa Babes.

Our hot tub discussion board, SpaForums.com  is one of the most popular hot tub bulletin boards online.  You'll be suprised at  the custom in depth info you can find here.   Just lurking there and exploring the many posts will fill you in on many aspects of hot tub repair and problem solving.  Want to post?  register and please do so!

Spa Heater Problems? Don't feel alone. Heater issues have to be the most common call our support staff gets!

If your hot tub isn't heating, isn't hot enough or is too hot, click  "Heater Help" and  find an easy checklist for solving common problems with hot tub heaters.  You'll also find common hot tub  heater logic and wiring diagrams.

The tech support staff always appreciates it if you have read the check list so you are familiar and have checked for common problems that may not be directly related to your heater. Are you troubleshooting a spa control switch or relay? You'll learn to identify important switches in your hot tub or spa, how they are wired and why they are there by checking out our switch and relay section

FREE Tech Support is only a phone call (or Email ) away. We are always glad to walk you through your hot tub or spa system and share our troubleshooting techniques. That's what we're here for!

Just click "Contact us." Hey!  Are you a pool or  spa service techs? We're here for you too !  Just let us know who you are and we'll get you on our Service Technician Site: spatechs.com, and are here to help with any thorny hot tub problem you might run into.  Call from the field!  We'll be here.

Want to buy or sell a hot tub? Check out our new FREE Classified Ads!

813-235-4574

Now enabled for Mobile Browsers!

Take us with you ....