PVC cutters or hacksaw
PVC glue (we recommend pool tite or rain and shine)
PVC clear cleaner (do not use purple primer, it softens flex pipe too much)
3 M  “M-5200”  Marine sealant (for Jet flanges, suction flanges or any thru-wall fitting that will be underwater.)
17 inch channel locks
Clean Rags and paper towels. 
Power drill with hole saws …hole saw sizes listed below. 

 
If you are plumbing your entire spa you will need to order the the following items for your Spa plumbing Kit.  When received, Lay them out with like parts together.

 
1. Jet bodies:  The jet body is the part that is actually installed in your hot tub. Depending on the jet type, they may insert through the hole in the tub, retained with a lock ring, or they may have a flange that inserts thru the wall and tightens against the jet body on the back side. 

2.  Jet inserts: This is the part that will provide the action. They generally screw into the jet body.  Save this step for last after all plumbing is completed and cured. 

3.  Spa suctions or skimmers

6.  Water manifolds: The "spoked" manifolds deliver the water to each jet. the most popular version is the 3/4 barbed type that uses clear vinyl tube OVER each spoke. . 

7.   Air manifolds:  The air manifolds connect to a 1 inch air control and are plumbed with 3/8ths vinyl tube from each spoke on the manifold to the air spoke on the jet body. 

8.  Air control (s) Flange mounted air valves to allow for air draw to the jets. 

9.  Plugs for any extra ports in your air or water manifolds

10. PVC caps and plugs for manifold ends (some of these are very small…)

11.Clear vinyl tube 3/8ths inch, for connection from the barbed air connector on each jet to a barb on the air manifold.

12. 3/4 inch vinyl tube  to connect from the water port on each jet to a port on the  water manifold. 

13. 1.5 or 2 inch flex pipe for connection from equipment discharge to water manifold and from the suction fittings to the equipment.  

14. 1.5 or 2 inch ball or slide valves for isolation of equipment (Optional)

Plan your holes!  Look on both sides of the spa before drilling. You need a flat surface on BOTH sides.  Mark the center point with magic marker. Drilling into an air channel or a ridge is a bad mistake you want to avoid! You need the spots you choose to allow the jet body to snug up to the wall on both sides. If you aren’t accustomed to using a hole saw this size on your drill make sure you HOLD ON TO IT TIGHTLY .  It can wrench the heck out of your arm. Drill your pilot hole and keep your rpms up as the hole saw approaches the spa shell.  Dont use excess force on the drill bit, let the saw do the work!  Apply gentle pressure and hold the drill steady. Wallow slightly. This will make the core easier to remove. Be ready for the breakthrough. You don’t want to be leaning heavily on the drill.   Remove cores after each hole. 

 If your spa shell has an inch or so of blown on foam it can be removed after drilling your hole, if you’re pretty sure there will be no surprises under the foam.  The easiest way to do this is with the hole saw you used to drill the hole.  If you put the hole saw pilot bit on the edge of the hole and make a circular motion around the hole  with the drill…the hole saw  will chew up the foam on the back… Use Finesse.  You don’t want it to mar the fiberglass.  Clean the fiberglass with pvc cleaner before you install the jet body. 

Put a bead of M-5200 or clear silicone on the flange of the jet (the part that will be in contact with the fiberglass on the INSIDE and insert it into the hole.  Put the retaining ring on the back of the jet body and snug it up firmly, but not over tight. You can put a bead of the M-5200 or silicone on the jet back as well.  Wipe off any excess M-5200 on the inside of the shell, and smooth down the bead oozing out around the jet back.   The jet back should be installed so that the air barb is pointing up and the water port pointing down.  If you are installing jet clusters  they may be cocked somewhat without adverse effect. When installing the pipe to the barbed connection use glue on the male barb only and slide the tube over the barb.  

The suction fitting installs the same way as the jets, M-5200 on the flange and on the nut of the back.   Be sure you have planned at least two suction fittings per pump. Skimmers need to be installed with water levels in mind.  The water level is marked on most skimmers.  Make sure your hole is below this line with the skimmer assembled. 

Be sure you know what is on the underside of the spa flange  before you drill your hole! 
Plan the location of your air controls so that they are positioned between the banks of jets you intend to operate.  The air manifold will plumb right to the air control.. You will glue it into place. Cap off the end.  Air controls do not need to be sealed to the shell as they are located above water level.  Each port on the air manifold will connect to the air barb on the back of each jet. Glue the male parts only and push the vinyl tube onto it as far as you can. 

The water manifold will plumb to the discharge side of your spa equipment.  You will plumb into it with either 1.5 or 2 inch pipe, keep in mind however, that the more jets you use the large pipe you will want to deliver the water to the manifold. 2 inch should be a minimum size for over 6 jets!   Several manifolds can be plumbed together if desired, they are designed for multiple connections.  The last manifold in line will need a cap on the final end. If you are plumbing banks of jets in certain areas, you can plumb to that area with 2 inch flex and use a 2inch by 6 port manifold under that area…then plumb to the next bank with 2 inch with another manifold in that location.  This saves on the amount of tube you need for the overall job and provides for adequate water delivery to each jet.  It is also cleaner looking than having all of your manifolds together with long runs of 1/2inch or 3/4 inch flex. 

To connect the vinyl to the barbed fittings, use cleaner on the male parts then glue, then push the vinyl over each barb..  a slight twist as you are pushing is always good. You want to leave a comfortable amount of slack between the manifold and each jet, without being sloppy. 

It’s best to wait at least 24 hours if possible, after plumbing your spa before putting it under pressure.

Jet family  inserts are interchangeable from jet to jet. They just thread or twist lock in and do not need any type sealant or thread compound. Storm jet inserts twist lock in. Save this for the very last. Many jet inserts are adjustable which means they can be turned off… be sure they are in an open position before turning on your pump. 

Here we discuss the main components of the heater circuit and the specific symptoms that may be associated with each.  Testing techniques and possible fixes are listed.

Note! Digital systems with printed circuit boards typically do not use mechanical thermostats and high limits, They use electronic temperature sensing devices.  They may use a contactor and pressure switch, and GFCI tripping issues may still involve the heater. Some tests will be the same.

Thermostat:  (Symptoms: no heat, too hot, not hot enough)
Mechanical thermostats consist of a switch, control knob, and temperature sensor.  The temperature sensor looks like a copper wire when in fact it is a tube connected to a bulb which is filled with freon which expands and contracts with temperature.  It is this expansion and contraction that activates the switch.  If your spa is too hot and does not respond to a turning down of the thermostat, this bulb could be corroded.  Check it.  If so, the gas may have escaped and thus while the switch will activate you'll have no sensing capabilities so it won't turn off at any designated temperature.  Bulbs cannot be replaced.  Time for a new Thermostat.  If your pump does not respond to thermostat demand you may want to check through the thermostat with your meter on ohms and power off to be sure the switch is opening and closing. You can usually hear this if your ears are good.  The switch will make a faint click as it is engaged and disengaged.  If it is engaging your problem may be up or down the line.  A power on check will assure you the T-Stat is getting power.  Meter to AC volts check each side to ground. 

If your spa is not hot enough, you may find that the thermostat is out of adjustment.  If you remove it from the heater (power off of course)  you'll find an allen screw adjustment on the bottom.  a quarter turn clockwise will usually  increase the temperature to comfortable levels... A word of caution here.  

It is UNSAFE to use your spa at temperatures above 104 degrees! It raises your core body temperature and can cause flu like symptoms.  It can also kill you!  Even at 104 degrees you should limit your time in the spa to no more than 15 minutes.  Some people shouldn't use a spa that's hotter than body temperature.  Consult your doctor!!!  Drugs and alcohol do not mix with spas either!  If you turn up your thermostat it's your responsibility to be sure your spa is not too hot for safe use.  Get a good thermometer that will give you an accurate reading.

High Limit: (Symptoms:  no power, no heat, high limit trips too soon)
High limits are also temperature sensing switches. They also use sensing bulbs so the same problems that exist above can influence your high limit.  If your high limit is tripping within a few minutes of activating the heater CHECK FLOW! Little or no water flow will cause this. 

If it trips at the end of the heating cycle it's probably because at the end, when the thermostat turns the pump off,  the element is still hot, and the water is hot.  The temperature at the element  can go up for a few seconds and will sometimes trip the high limit.  It's best to replace the high limit if this happens all the time. The high limit has an adjustment screw also.  If you choose to try this it is a counter clockwise turn and it should barely be tweaked.  You need this safety switch to interrupt if there is a problem. 

This adjustment is at your own risk!  Remember flow is critical!  If you adjust your high limit and your pump impeller is full of leaves you could have a complete meltdown of all pipes in contact with the heater.  Not a pretty sight!  If you have no power this can also indicate a "high limit tripped" condition.

Pressure Switch: (Symptoms: contactor not closing, no heat.)
Obviously, flow is going to come up again here!  You must have flow for the pressure switch to activate!  To check for activation:  with power off, disconnect the leads going to the pressure switch.  Make sure they aren't touching anything.  Power up and turn on low pump. With your meter on ohms, check across the poles of the switch. You should have continuity. If not and you know flow is not the issue, most pressure switches have an adjusting collar that will vary the pressure it takes to activate it.  Counter clockwise turns decrease pressure required.  Turn the power off  before attempting any adjustment!  Make all adjustments slowly and try again. WARNING, if you go too far the pressure switch may activate with the pump off. 

This is the last thing you want to happen!!!  Always check to be sure that the heater goes off when the pump does!   If you are certain flow is present, but your pressure switch isn't activating you may want to remove it and be sure no debris is clogging it up.  Pressure switches are in contact with the water, when you remove it water will come out (or should).  Power off!  Close valves. 

Sometimes the location of the pressure switch is such that removal is impossible without removing other components (I hate that!) Some use a plastic base and must be unscrewed very carefully or the darn thing will break off. Now you'll have to dig out the old threads and replace your switch.

Flow Switch: (Symptoms:  GFI trips, no heat)
I haven't said too much about these as they aren't as common as pressure switches.  They are usually in the plumbing close to the heart of the action.  They are gray or white with a small cord coming out of them that goes to the controller. They utilize a little paddle type device that is pushed by water flow until it activates a little switch.  The switch should be isolated from the water. 

If, when you open your flow switch water comes out, you must replace it.  Otherwise, with the power off remove the leads to the terminals, make sure they aren't touching anything and power up.  With flow established check the switch to be sure it is closing using your meter set on ohms.  You should have continuity through the switch.  If not, time to replace. The wires, though small, carry 120 volts.  Don't leave them hanging.

Contactors: (Symptoms:  no heat, buzzing, GFI trips)
Contactors close when the control loop is complete. They consist of a coil which when energized should pull down the contacts so the voltage to the element can pass through.  Troubleshooting a contactor consists of checking across the coil (not the contacts) to see if the circuit to it has been completed.  Coils can be 120 volt or 240 volt with 120 being the most common.   This is a power on test so be careful.  With your meter set to AC volts activate all controls necessary to activate your heater. Turn up the thermostat to engage your low pump. 

Check across the coil of the contactor for voltage (neutral and hot side for 120 volts).  If you find the proper amount of voltage present and your contactor is not engaging it is bad.  If you do NOT have voltage at the coil there is an open switch somewhere in the control loop, you'll need to go back through your switches.  If your contactor is buzzing replace it. There may be more than one contactor.  Make sure you are checking the heater contactor by tracing back the wires from your element.

The Element: (Symptoms:  GFI trips, no heat)
Before we start it is important to note that if the spa is heating AT ALL it is not the element. See thermostat.  Assuming this is not the case continue with the power off, disconnect all leads connected directly to the element.  With your meter on ohms test across the element terminals for continuity.  If there is no continuity your element is bad.  If  you have continuity it should be around 9 to 12 ohms.  If your GFI is tripping, check from ground to each element terminal.  The slightest flicker of continuity indicates a fault to ground and your element is bad even it it has continuity between the terminals. It may have a pinhole in it or be otherwise corroded and leaking current to ground. This is a potentially lethal situation and your GFI is doing it's job. Do not bypass GFI (ever!), even if your element looks okay!