Please evaluate your skill level before attempting this test.  All tests performed by you are at your own risk

Power Off At Breaker

Disconnect heater element from any wires attached to it.  Be careful when unscrewing the nut holding the wires in place on the element, you do not want to twist the “cold pin” that leads to the element.  There is usually a fixed nut below the removeable one that will allow you to secure the cold pin.

It is not necessary to remove the heater assembly! You want water in the heater manifold during this test!

Continuity Test:

With your meter set on the most sensitive  ” ohms” setting (the OMEGA symbol on the meter)  put one probe on one element lead and the other probe on the other lead.

If you meter does not change,it is showing no continuity, the element is bad

If your meter measures resistance then it is showing continuity which indicates the filament inside is intact, but the heater could still  be bad!

Ground Fault Test

Move one probe to a metal part on the heater casing leaving the other one on one pole of the heater element .  If there is any flicker of continuity from one element lead to the heater casing (ground) the element is bad, even though you may have tested good  continuity above!  This is a ground fault situation and is what your GFCI is picking up and saving you from!

If you have an intact filament and no fault to ground, the heater element  should be good and you may have a different problem.

Since gfci’s are very sensitive, you could still have a bad element and your meter sensitivity may not be allowing you to pick up the fault.

Okay it’s bad, now what do I do?

Now you need to replace the element (if replaceable) or the entire heater assembly.

The most common replacement element is the flow through element.  If your heater manifold is a stainless steel straight flow through tube, this is the element you’ll need.

Even if that doesn’t look like one you need, clicking on the image will take you to our page with all heater elements, popular manifolds and complete heater assemblies.  

My favorite sanitizing chemical for hot tubs is Sodium Dichlor.  I’ve outlined the reasons in other posts and the spa care guide, but what about other chlorine compounds?  I’ve noticed some recent searches lately that brought to my attention the fact that some folks want to know about the possibilities of using other chlorine compounds like Calcium Hypochlorite,  Sodium Hypochlorite,  TriChlor,and Lithium Hypochlorite.

• Calcium Hypochlorite:  Cal-Hypo as we call it in the industry is loaded with calcium and has a high hH. Now if you were filling your hot tub with soft water from a conditioner (which you should try to bypass) You could use Cal-hypo to bring up your calcium a bit. Continuous use however will raise your pH swiftly and your calcium levels as well and could cause scaling on your hot tub walls and your equipment, mainly heater elements.  As an emergency sanitizer or one time use, it probably wont hurt.  It just shouldnt be the chlorine you use all the time.  If you do use it, you should test your water frequently and adjust for ph levels that will increase!
  
• Sodium Hypochlorite:  You know this chemical as “Bleach.”  It too can be used in emergencies but also has an extremely high pH which over time will cause scaling and possible staining.  Using Sodium hypochlorite requires monitoring pH levels closely and correction will be required.   
  
• Tri Chlor:  Typically used in tabletized chlorine for swimming pools, tri chlor has an extremely LOW pH and a very high available chlorine content.  It will bring down your pH and Total alkalinity quickly and should not be used for hot tubs.
  
• Lithium Hypochlorite:  This chlorine compound is not as readily available as others but it has a neutral pH and is totally soluble. It is fine for use in hot tubs but more expensive than dichlor.
  
• Sodium dichlor:  Dichlor has a neutral ph and is also stabilized. It is the perfect sanitizer for hot tubs.  some people may argue that the stabilizer builds up over time, but if you drain your spa on a regular schedule it should not be an issue.
  

Hope this helps clear up the confusion on this often searched issue!  Using the right chlorine compound in your hot tub is critical to both your enjoyment and the condition of your equipment!

Much of the year in Florida it’s so hot that using a hot tub may seem like punishment!  Not THIS week!  If you’ve never used a hot tub with temps in the 30′s or 40′s you’ve GOT to try it.  Its like being under a watery electric blanket.  It’s an indescribable sensation that is total luxury! 

It may take a little coaxing to run out to the tub in your bathing suit and jump in but once you are there, get ready for a fantastic hot tubbing experience!  Climb in sink down and experience "AHHHHhhhhhhh"  Relaxation at its finest.! 

Make sure you have a warm robe for use when you exit but when you crawl into bed after your hot tub in the cold experience, you just feel clean!  Really clean!   I have to admit I’ve never used a hot tub iin the snow. I know  at the Ski Resorts it is a totally popular activity, and after last night’s foray into my hot tub with temps hovering near 30 degrees i understand why! 

Try it today or tonight!  I promise you’ll revel in its sensuousness and it will be hard to leave the warm watery nest you’re enjoying!  

Obviously there are some health conditions that would prevent this luxury and the extremes of temperature, if in doubt consult your physcian.

I know its cold out there folks but you might want to check on the hot tub!  The best thing to do if you haven’t actually winterized it is keep it running and maintaining temp.  Even as the thermometer dips  below freezing  these temps will not affect a hot tub that is striving to maintain a temperature of over 100 degrees.

Make sure your cover is secure!  If you are having issues with heat try to keep the high pump running for circulation. Again, keep your cover in place!  Heat put out by the equipment and pump as it operates SHOULD keep pipes from freezing. In the event of a catastrophe like a power outage,  probably nothing will save it from having some freeze damage.

Rest assured we do have plumbing fittings for replacement if you need them!  If  you do have a power outage it will be prudent to turn off power to the hot tub so it does not try to come back on while frozen. Good Luck!