spababes.com » Temperature

Testing Your Hot Tub Heater

admin — Fri, 18 Jun 2010 15:44:14 +0000

This test is best done with the heater installed and water in the hot tub. If the element is not wet, the test to ground can fail and make you think that the heater is okay!

Please evaluate your skill level before attempting this test. All tests performed by you are at your own risk

Power Off At Breaker

Disconnect heater element from any wires attached to it. Be careful when unscrewing the nut holding the wires in place on the element, you do not want to twist the “cold pin” that leads to the element. There is usually a fixed nut below the removeable one that will allow you to secure the cold pin.

It is not necessary to remove the heater assembly! You want water in the heater manifold during this test!

Continuity Test:

With your meter set on the most sensitive ” ohms” setting (the OMEGA symbol on the meter) put one probe on one element lead and the other probe on the other lead.

If you meter does not change,it is showing no continuity, the element is bad

If your meter measures resistance then it is showing continuity which indicates the filament inside is intact, but the heater could still be bad!

Ground Fault Test

Move one probe to a metal part on the heater casing leaving the other one on one pole of the heater element . If there is any flicker of continuity from one element lead to the heater casing (ground) the element is bad, even though you may have tested good continuity above! This is a ground fault situation and is what your GFCI is picking up and saving you from!

If you have an intact filament and no fault to ground, the heater element should be good and you may have a different problem.

Since gfci’s are very sensitive, you could still have a bad element and your meter sensitivity may not be allowing you to pick up the fault.

Okay it’s bad, now what do I do?

Now you need to replace the element (if replaceable) or the entire heater assembly.

The most common replacement element is the flow through element. If your heater manifold is a stainless steel straight flow through tube, this is the element you’ll need.

Even if that doesn’t look like one you need, clicking on the image will take you to our page with all heater elements, popular manifolds and complete heater assemblies.

Record Cold in the South=Perfect Hot Tub Weather

admin — Mon, 11 Jan 2010 18:40:03 +0000

Don’t Miss Out on Using Your Hot Tub in the Cold!

Much of the year in Florida it’s so hot that using a hot tub may seem like punishment! Not THIS week! If you’ve never used a hot tub with temps in the 30′s or 40′s you’ve GOT to try it. Its like being under a watery electric blanket. It’s an indescribable sensation that is total luxury!

It may take a little coaxing to run out to the tub in your bathing suit and jump in but once you are there, get ready for a fantastic hot tubbing experience! Climb in sink down and experience "AHHHHhhhhhhh" Relaxation at its finest.!

Make sure you have a warm robe for use when you exit but when you crawl into bed after your hot tub in the cold experience, you just feel clean! Really clean! I have to admit I’ve never used a hot tub iin the snow. I know at the Ski Resorts it is a totally popular activity, and after last night’s foray into my hot tub with temps hovering near 30 degrees i understand why!

Try it today or tonight! I promise you’ll revel in its sensuousness and it will be hard to leave the warm watery nest you’re enjoying!

Obviously there are some health conditions that would prevent this luxury and the extremes of temperature, if in doubt consult your physcian.

How is Your Hot Tub Surviving The Cold?

admin — Sat, 09 Jan 2010 19:54:19 +0000

: Image via Wikipedia

I know its cold out there folks but you might want to check on the hot tub! The best thing to do if you haven’t actually winterized it is keep it running and maintaining temp. Even as the thermometer dips below freezing these temps will not affect a hot tub that is striving to maintain a temperature of over 100 degrees.

Make sure your cover is secure! If you are having issues with heat try to keep the high pump running for circulation. Again, keep your cover in place! Heat put out by the equipment and pump as it operates SHOULD keep pipes from freezing. In the event of a catastrophe like a power outage, probably nothing will save it from having some freeze damage.

Rest assured we do have plumbing fittings for replacement if you need them! If you do have a power outage it will be prudent to turn off power to the hot tub so it does not try to come back on while frozen. Good Luck!

Heater Help

admin — Fri, 08 Jan 2010 22:47:17 +0000

Electric Heater Troubleshooting for Your Hot Tub

The following exercise involves observations we’d like you to check before you call! We want you to have identified the type heater you have and that you’ve read the following:

Does "anything" work?

IE, can you activate your pump blower light etc? If it seems like nothing works, check the obvious: All Breakers, GFCI’s and Reset buttons on your hot tub equipment pack, or spa pack. If you find a tripped breaker, or GFCI breaker, Reset and try operation again, proceeding with caution. Breakers and GFCIs trip for a reason generally. Many times it is the heater element that will cause this tripping. If the spa trips the second that heat demand is present it probably is your heater element causing this. NEVER BYPASS GFCI"S or "try it without" GFCI protection. This tells you nothing and is dangerous! If you find a High Limit Reset is tripped ( This is the "red button" found on many spa packs. If you have an older hot tub, the button may be on the heater itself. and possibly covered by a rubber nipple) Go ahead and attempt a reset. When this button is tripped resetting it will involve a definite "click’ If it wont click in it is just NOT TRIPPED. *note: if you have a digital spa pack you will probably not have a manual High Temp limit switch. It will be done with sensors. High Temp limit switches are in place for two reasons. One to protect the bather from water that could be too hot. But the other reason is to protect the heater itself from overheating. Most high limit switches are located with their sensor near the element itself. If the element is not getting the proper amount of water flow ( pump problems, water level too low in hot tub etc) It will trip even though the spa itself is not hot at all. Water flow is essential for cooling the element so that it doesn’t burn up. The high limit may not always protect the heater element because even though it immediately shuts off power to the heater element, the element can overheat quicker than the high limit can react. * note: Never try to operate a heater if the hot tub is not at its proper fill level! The pump will loose prime and the heater element can literally burn up in seconds! Turn off immediately if it sounds like there is water boiling in the heater area. If your high limit resets, and the hot tub starts normally, check your pump operation closely. Chances are it was flow problem that cause this issue. Make sure your pump is operating normally with no leaks or unusual noise. Also be positive that any shut off valves are in the open position. The level of water in your hot tub is critical to your pump operating properly.

Is your Pump Pumping and Water Flowing?

In the section above emphasis was placed on proper pump operation. After checking resets and power, your next target is the pump. You want to be sure that not only is the pump running, it is pumping. To check this you want to open your cover and verify that flow is present. If your pump is running but not pumping be sure to check any valves that may be closed after servicing. Only open or close valves with the power OFF! Then try pump operation again. Other things can keep pumps from pumping as well the most common and easy to fix is an air lock. Air locks happen sometimes when the hot tub is drained. All the water leaves the pump during process and when the fill begins a big bubble gets trapped there. You can try and open the air control or the air relief valve on the filter but sometimes that’s not enough and you have to get wet…lol. With the power to the hot tub OFF try opening the union on the front suction of the pump. This is the best place to release an air lock. Don’t unscrew the union completely, just crack it enough to break the seal of the oring. If there is an air lock, you will hear the air hissing out. Once the air lock is cleared, water will begin leaking out. Let it leak for a second to be sure all of air has been dispelled. Tighten up the union and try the pump again. If your pump operation is normal and there is still no heat…

Have You Waited Long Enough?

We get quite a few calls that fall into this category. Initial fill of a hot tub will take awhile to reach temperature. Hot tubs operating at 120 volts heat approximately 1 to 2 degrees an HOUR! You will not feel a difference in the temp of the water entering the hot tub. Your best bet is to walk away for a good 6 hours at least to check for increases in temperature. Once the hot tub attains temperature, it will maintain it. 240 Volt hot tubs heat about 4 to 6 degrees an hour. Ambient temperature will effect the heating times of any hot tub. You need a good insulated cover for your tub as well. 80 percent of a hot tubs heat is lost thru the surface area. A good cover is a must! They dont have to be expensive either. Check out "The Soft Cover." They cost under 200 dollars and can ship UPS! They use an air bladder to insulate with impressive R values.

You’re pumping, you got enough water, no high limit problems,you’ve waited a friggin week and its still not heating?

Well it might be time to roll up the sleeves and do some electrical tests. Your going to need some tools and good logical head. You are going to learn some more heater logic and learn about common issues that relate to heating that occur "inside the box." You absolutely will need an electrical meter and know how to use it. If you are in anyway not comfortable with power on tests, do not attempt them. Call a qualified person in your area. The next section will explain more about heater trouble shooting which often gets into control troubleshooting. You might want to identify the spa heater you have. The majority of the modern heaters are of the Flow Through design. If your heater looks different Click on identify your hot tub heater. If you are ready to move on, click on Spa Heater Circuits. We are in the process of revising all of our pages, to our new look and WordPress format.

Spa Heater Symptom and Cure

admin — Wed, 06 Jan 2010 01:21:05 +0000

Troubleshooting Spa Heater Components

Here we discuss the main components of the heater circuit and the specific symptoms that may be associated with each. Testing techniques and possible fixes are listed.

Note! Digital systems with printed circuit boards typically do not use mechanical thermostats and high limits, They use electronic temperature sensing devices. They may use a contactor and pressure switch, and GFCI tripping issues may still involve the heater. Some tests will be the same.

Thermostat: (Symptoms: no heat, too hot, not hot enough)
Mechanical thermostats consist of a switch, control knob, and temperature sensor. The temperature sensor looks like a copper wire when in fact it is a tube connected to a bulb which is filled with freon which expands and contracts with temperature. It is this expansion and contraction that activates the switch. If your spa is too hot and does not respond to a turning down of the thermostat, this bulb could be corroded. Check it. If so, the gas may have escaped and thus while the switch will activate you'll have no sensing capabilities so it won't turn off at any designated temperature. Bulbs cannot be replaced. Time for a new Thermostat. If your pump does not respond to thermostat demand you may want to check through the thermostat with your meter on ohms and power off to be sure the switch is opening and closing. You can usually hear this if your ears are good. The switch will make a faint click as it is engaged and disengaged. If it is engaging your problem may be up or down the line. A power on check will assure you the T-Stat is getting power. Meter to AC volts check each side to ground.

If your spa is not hot enough, you may find that the thermostat is out of adjustment. If you remove it from the heater (power off of course) you'll find an allen screw adjustment on the bottom. a quarter turn clockwise will usually increase the temperature to comfortable levels... A word of caution here.

It is UNSAFE to use your spa at temperatures above 104 degrees! It raises your core body temperature and can cause flu like symptoms. It can also kill you! Even at 104 degrees you should limit your time in the spa to no more than 15 minutes. Some people shouldn't use a spa that's hotter than body temperature. Consult your doctor!!! Drugs and alcohol do not mix with spas either! If you turn up your thermostat it's your responsibility to be sure your spa is not too hot for safe use. Get a good thermometer that will give you an accurate reading.

High Limit: (Symptoms: no power, no heat, high limit trips too soon)
High limits are also temperature sensing switches. They also use sensing bulbs so the same problems that exist above can influence your high limit. If your high limit is tripping within a few minutes of activating the heater CHECK FLOW! Little or no water flow will cause this.

If it trips at the end of the heating cycle it's probably because at the end, when the thermostat turns the pump off, the element is still hot, and the water is hot. The temperature at the element can go up for a few seconds and will sometimes trip the high limit. It's best to replace the high limit if this happens all the time. The high limit has an adjustment screw also. If you choose to try this it is a counter clockwise turn and it should barely be tweaked. You need this safety switch to interrupt if there is a problem.

This adjustment is at your own risk! Remember flow is critical! If you adjust your high limit and your pump impeller is full of leaves you could have a complete meltdown of all pipes in contact with the heater. Not a pretty sight! If you have no power this can also indicate a "high limit tripped" condition.

Pressure Switch: (Symptoms: contactor not closing, no heat.)
Obviously, flow is going to come up again here! You must have flow for the pressure switch to activate! To check for activation: with power off, disconnect the leads going to the pressure switch. Make sure they aren't touching anything. Power up and turn on low pump. With your meter on ohms, check across the poles of the switch. You should have continuity. If not and you know flow is not the issue, most pressure switches have an adjusting collar that will vary the pressure it takes to activate it. Counter clockwise turns decrease pressure required. Turn the power off before attempting any adjustment! Make all adjustments slowly and try again. WARNING, if you go too far the pressure switch may activate with the pump off.

This is the last thing you want to happen!!! Always check to be sure that the heater goes off when the pump does!   If you are certain flow is present, but your pressure switch isn't activating you may want to remove it and be sure no debris is clogging it up. Pressure switches are in contact with the water, when you remove it water will come out (or should). Power off! Close valves.

Sometimes the location of the pressure switch is such that removal is impossible without removing other components (I hate that!) Some use a plastic base and must be unscrewed very carefully or the darn thing will break off. Now you'll have to dig out the old threads and replace your switch.

Flow Switch: (Symptoms: GFI trips, no heat)
I haven't said too much about these as they aren't as common as pressure switches. They are usually in the plumbing close to the heart of the action. They are gray or white with a small cord coming out of them that goes to the controller. They utilize a little paddle type device that is pushed by water flow until it activates a little switch. The switch should be isolated from the water.

If, when you open your flow switch water comes out, you must replace it. Otherwise, with the power off remove the leads to the terminals, make sure they aren't touching anything and power up. With flow established check the switch to be sure it is closing using your meter set on ohms. You should have continuity through the switch. If not, time to replace. The wires, though small, carry 120 volts. Don't leave them hanging.

Contactors: (Symptoms: no heat, buzzing, GFI trips)
Contactors close when the control loop is complete. They consist of a coil which when energized should pull down the contacts so the voltage to the element can pass through. Troubleshooting a contactor consists of checking across the coil (not the contacts) to see if the circuit to it has been completed. Coils can be 120 volt or 240 volt with 120 being the most common.   This is a power on test so be careful. With your meter set to AC volts activate all controls necessary to activate your heater. Turn up the thermostat to engage your low pump.

Check across the coil of the contactor for voltage (neutral and hot side for 120 volts). If you find the proper amount of voltage present and your contactor is not engaging it is bad. If you do NOT have voltage at the coil there is an open switch somewhere in the control loop, you'll need to go back through your switches. If your contactor is buzzing replace it. There may be more than one contactor. Make sure you are checking the heater contactor by tracing back the wires from your element.

The Element: (Symptoms: GFI trips, no heat)
Before we start it is important to note that if the spa is heating AT ALL it is not the element. See thermostat. Assuming this is not the case continue with the power off, disconnect all leads connected directly to the element. With your meter on ohms test across the element terminals for continuity. If there is no continuity your element is bad. If you have continuity it should be around 9 to 12 ohms. If your GFI is tripping, check from ground to each element terminal. The slightest flicker of continuity indicates a fault to ground and your element is bad even it it has continuity between the terminals. It may have a pinhole in it or be otherwise corroded and leaking current to ground. This is a potentially lethal situation and your GFI is doing it's job. Do not bypass GFI (ever!), even if your element looks okay!